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Newsgroups: rec.pets.birds,rec.answers,news.answers Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!enterpoop.mit.edu!ira.uka.de!math.fu-berlin.de!nigel.msen.com!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!world!tombaker From: tombaker@world.std.com Subject: rec.pets.birds FAQ: Monthly Posting (1/2) Message-ID: <C5JM1y.DAu@world.std.com> Followup-To: rec.pets.birds Summary: This is a monthly posting of topics regarding birds that may prove useful to those new to this group or to the rewarding hobby of keeping birds. Or, more accurately, of your bird keeping you! Sender: tombaker@world.std.com (Tom A Baker) Reply-To: tombaker@world.std.com Organization: Me, at The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1993 20:53:57 GMT Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.Edu Expires: Thu, 17 Jun 1993 00:00:00 GMT Lines: 671 Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.pets.birds:4166 rec.answers:629 news.answers:7611 Archive-name: pets-birds-faq/part1 Last-modified: 1993/02/28 Version: 1 =============================================================================== There was an old man of Dunrose; A Parrot seized hold of his nose. When he grew melancholy, They said, "His name's Polly," Which soothed that old man of Dunrose. --Edward Lear =============================================================================== * * * W E L C O M E T O T H E F A Q * * * Freqently (A)sked (Q)uestions regarding rec.pets.birds. P A R T I ========== This is a monthly posting of topics regarding birds that may prove useful to those new to this group or to the rewarding hobby of keeping birds. Or, more accurately, of your bird keeping you! Comments, suggestions, chocolates to: Jodi Giannini (rocky@socrates.umd.edu) This FAQ, as a collection of information, is copyrighted 1993, by Jodi L. Giannini, and distribution by means other than Usenet is by permission only. Removal of this copyright notice is not permitted. Thanks, gratitude, and pats on the back to: Rocky Giannini for proofreading and doing the technical type stuff, Tom Baker for archiving and the Appleworks version of this FAQ, Ruth D. Miller, Larry J. Brackney, Kate Finn, and all of the other rec.pet.bird readers who contributed--Thank you very much! Topics that are covered in Part 1 are: Bird magazines, books, and the like; Basic bird terminology; Choosing/Buying a bird; Cages, perches and Bird toys. Part 2 covers Diet and feeding; Taming and training; Travel with birds; Finding an avian vet; Health; Hazards; and First Aid. ***This FAQ is by no means meant to replace the many wonderful and informative books, breeders, magazines, and veterinarians that are out there.*** =============================================================================== B I R D - M A G A Z I N E S - B O O K S - E T C =============================================================================== ==MAGAZINES== *Note: Information is as current as possible, but costs do change. All the magazines are published monthly unless otherwise noted. AMERICAN CAGE BIRD MAGAZINE BIRD TALK MAGAZINE (Subscription Dept) One Glamour Court P.O. BOX 57347 Smithtown, NY, 11787 Boulder, CO, 80323-7347 1-800-359-BIRD (2473) (303) 786-7306 *One year $21.95 (U.S) *One year $25.97 (U.S.) Canada and Foreign add $6.00 Canada add $8.00 plus 7% GST U.S. Funds, International M.O. Foreign add $12.00 International M.O. Visa and Mastercard accepted California residents add 7.25% sales tax CAGE BIRD HOBBYIST (Quarterly**) PARROT WORLD (Bi-monthly) P.O. BOX 427 8 No. Hoffman Lane, Dept. BT Neptune, NJ, 07753-0427 Hauppage, NY, 11788 No number available 1-800-538-8184 *One year $9.00 (U.S.) *One Year $21.95 (U.S) Canada and Foreign add $4.00 Canada $29.95 (U.S. Funds) U.S. Funds only Foreign $37.95 (U.S. Funds) **Should be going monthly Visa, Mastercard, American Express sometime soon Checks and Money Orders accepted ==BOOKS== *Note: These are some of the books I've found useful. They are nice for the hobbyist, being not so much for the science of breeding. They're a good start. Bird Talk has monthly book reviews, and you may want to ask your vet or breeder to recommend some titles to you. Guide To A Well-Behaved Parrot by Mattie Sue Athan ISBN 0-8120-4996-9 Barron's Publishers Copyright 1993 You and Your Pet Bird (softcover) The Bird Care Book (softcover) by David Alderton by Sheldon L. Gerstenfeld, V.M.D. ISBN 0-679-74061-9 ISBN 0-201-03909-5 Alfred A. Knopf, Publisher Addison-Wesley Publishing Company Copyright 1992 Copyright 1981 The Complete Book of Parrots Seed-Eating Birds (softcover) by Rosemary Low (finches, canaries, and such) ISBN 0-8120-5971-9 by Jefferey Trollope Barron's Publishing Sterling Publishing Copyright 1988 Copyright 1992 ==ETCETERA== Sally Blanchard's Pet Bird Report Bimonthly publication $18.00 U.S.A. $26.00 Canada PBIC/The Pet Bird Report 3435 N.W. 56th Street, Suite 700-BT Oklahoma City, OK, 73112 (405) 945-4299 Sally Blanchard is a bird behaviorist who is a regular columnist with Bird Talk Magazine. This newsletter has tips about training, taming, why birds do what birds do, and all kinds of information for bird owners. There are also all kinds of videos about birds available through the various classified ads in bird magazines. They might be worth a look. Bird clubs are wonderful too. I recently joined one myself. It was just great to meet other bird people, ask questions, and get all kinds of information. It's really a good idea. A great source of information is your local breeder. Most breeders will gladly take time to answer questions. =============================================================================== B A S I C B I R D T E R M I N O L O G Y =============================================================================== BLOODFEATHER--Any feather which still has a blood supply to it. CHROMOSOMES--a male bird has two Z(sex)chromosomes and a female one Z and one W. These can be seen under a microscope and are used in chromosome analysis to determine the sex of the bird. (See KARYOTYPING) CITES--(C)onvention on (I)nternational (T)rade in (E)ndangered (S)pecies. This body regulates trade of parrots throughout various countries. Most parrots are on CITES Appendix 2, which means that the country that is exporting the birds may only issue export permits if the exportation of the bird does not endanger the survival of the species. Extremely rare and threatened species go on Appendix I, which means any sort of exportation is explicitly forbidden and illegal. Palm Cockatoos and Hyacithine Macaws are an example of CITES Appendix I birds. Recent legislations is trying to ban importation completely. CLOSED-BAND--a completely closed ring of metal that can only be put on a bird within a certain time, usually from 8-10 days in a small bird and up to four weeks in the larger species of birds. The bands are usually imprinted with hatchdate and place of origin. They are generally accepted as proof of domesticity and age. However, some unscrupulous people may force a closed-band onto an imported bird. Look for a band that seems too big. COCK---Any male bird of a species. DIMORPHIC--A species is said to be dimorphic when there are distinct visual characteristics between the sexes. Gray Cockatiels are an example of this; a male bird has a bright yellow head. Eclectus are also dimorphic, the male bird is green, and the female, red. (See MONOMORPHIC) DOMESTIC--A bird that has been bred within the country. FEATHER SEXING--See KARYOTYPING FLEDGLING--A baby bird that is out of the nest, but not eating by itself. HAND-FED--also "Hand-reared" or "Hand-raised". The babies are taken from parents at about two weeks, and then fed by people, using spoons, pipettes or syringes and a special baby-bird formula. This results in a bonding of the bird to people, and a friendlier, more tame bird. HEN----Female bird of any species. IMPORTED--A bird brought in from another country. An imported bird will have an open-band on its leg. KARYOTYPING--A method of sexing which is non-invasive. A drop of blood is taken from the bird, usually by pulling out a bloodfeather. The pulp and blood from the feather is then cultured until there are enough cells to do a chromosome preparation. The number of chromosomes then is looked at to determine the sex of the bird. (See SURGICAL SEXING) MONOMORPHIC--Both sexes of the bird appear identical. OPEN-BAND--This type of band, which is squeezed shut around the bird's leg is indicative of an imported bird. PARROT FEVER--See PSITTACOSIS, ZOONOSES PBFD---(P)sittacine (B)eak and (F)eather (D)isease. A serious viral disease which is *highly* contagious. There is no cure. PBFD causes deformed feathers which fall out, the beak softens and becomes misshapen, and the virus can affect internal organs. Birds usually die of a secondary infection of some sort. The virus can be spread through the feces and feather dust and the virus can be found in the birds' crop as well. It can affect several different species of birds, but is most common among Cockatoos. PSITTACOSIS--A curable bacterial disease that can affect BOTH humans and birds. It's also called "Parrot Fever", "Chlamydiosis", and "Ornithosis". Psittacosis is spread through inhalation of feather and fecal dust. Bacterial tests can detect it. The disease manifests itself with flu-like symptoms in people. Infected birds are quarantined (isolated) and treated with Tetracycline, a broad-spectrum antibiotic. QUARANTINE--A period of isolation required for imported birds. These birds are often given various medications to insure that they do not carry Psittacosis or other contagious diseases. Also, it is a good idea to isolate a sick bird from other pet birds or birds in an aviary. SURGICAL SEXING--Also abbreviated as S.S. or S/S. Since many bird species are monomorphic, one way to tell one bird from the other is to do it surgically, using a method called laproscopy. The bird is anesthetized, and a small slit cut into the bird's body. A tiny incision is made and a laproscope is inserted, allowing the vet to view the reproductive organs, thus sexing the bird. WEANED--The bird is out of the nest, and eating on its own. In hand-fed birds the bird is no longer on baby formula and eating seeds and other solids. ZOONOSES--A zoonosis (singular) is any disease of animals that can be contracted by a human being. There are over 100 types of these. One of the most widely publicized is Psittacosis (SEE PSITTACOSIS). For reasons like this, all imported birds must be quarantined upon entering this country. (See QUARANTINE) =============================================================================== C H O O S I N G A B I R D =============================================================================== ***HELP! WHERE DO I BEGIN?*** First, you want to take into consideration these things: 1. What can I afford? Cost varies according to the type of bird being purchased. You can get a pair of Finches for about twenty dollars, a Budgie for about the same. Cockatiels range from $40 to $100, Amazons $250 to $800...and a Hyacinth Macaw can command upwards from $6,000! Set a budget, and work from there. But let the buyer beware of "bargain birds"--they're usually not worth it. Hand-fed birds are well worth the extra cost. 2. How much space will the bird need? The larger birds and even some of the smaller ones, are very active and need large cages and areas to play in. It's not fair to cramp a bird in a small cage. 3. Do I have the *time* for a bird? This is probably the most important question. Birds are intelligent, playful, and most of all, *social* animals. Will you have time to play with your bird? To properly care for it? Will you have an opportunity to be part of your family? Also, consider time in this sense--Birds are rather long lived. A little Cockatiel can live up to 20 years! An Amazon or a Grey, could live 50 or 60, there are documented cases of some birds living to be 100! Can you commit to that?! It's not unusual for birds to be passed down to another generation. Don't buy a bird if you think you will quickly tire of it. 4. How noisy is the bird? Will the neighbors complain? Budgies and Cockatiels are rather quiet. They are good for apartment dwellers. A Moluccan Cockatoo could work in an apartment, as long as you have neighbors on the sides and sixth floor that like to listen to head-splitting screams. Aratinga conures are noted for their squawking--Sun Conures belong to this genus. Pyrhurra conures (I have one) are rather quiet. Of course, there are variations due to the personality of the bird. There may be a quiet Cockatoo somewhere. 5. How destructive is the bird? Do you have priceless heirloom furniture? Rare books? Keep in mind that birds have powerful beaks. Some birds are less prone to "chewing" than others. 6. Does the bird need a special diet? Lories and Toucans, for example, require specialized diets. Do you have the ways and means to provide it? Once you you've done your research and decided what kind of bird you want, now is time to go out and buy a bird. Never, ever, buy a bird on impulse. ==WHAT DO I LOOK FOR WHEN I BUY MY BIRD?== First off, you want to make certain you get a healthy, happy bird. In general you want to look for: 1. An alert disposition. The bird should be interested in its environment. It should be active. Avoid puffed-up and sleepy-looking birds. 2. Feathering: Make sure feathering is shiny and without bare patches. On long-tailed species like Macaws, take a good look at the tail. If there are thin lines running across tailfeathers, it's usually a good indicator of poor nutrition. Please note that baby birds often look rather tatty, with the feathers somewhat frayed. This is normal. 3. Eyes: The eyes should be bright and clear. There should be no discharge. There should be no swelling. 4. Nostrils should be clear of any blockages. They should be of the same size and shape. In birds with bare facial patches (Macaws) the skin should be clear and white. A flush of red sometimes indicates an infection of the sinus cavities. 5. Upper and lower parts of the beak (the mandibles) should meet cleanly, with no signs of separation. In Cockatoos, the beak should be grayish, covered with powder. Never buy an older Cockatoo with a shiny black beak. is a sure indication that something is wrong. Baby Cockatoo beaks will be somewhat shiny. 6. Feet should have all toes, although a missing toe or claw for a pet isn't a bad thing. It is however, out of the question for a show bird. More than one toe or claw gone will hamper the bird's perching ability. The bird should be able to grip its perch or your hand firmly. The feet of a young bird should be smooth and soft. Older birds have feet which are more scaly. Excessive scaliness is not good, and can be indicative of vitamin A deficiency. 7. Breathing should be regular and even. No wheezing, snorting or straining allowed. 8. The bird should not be too skinny. To check for this, ask someone to hold the bird while you feel along the sides of its keel (breast) bone. It should be well fleshed out. If you can see the keel protruding, the bird is obviously underweight, and might be suffering some illness. 9. While the person has the bird, have them turn it over and check the vent area. It should be clean and clear of stains or pasted feces. 10. Ask to handle the bird yourself. Observe it. Does it have a nice personality or did it just bite the ($*# out of you? 11. Look to see if the bird is banded. This is indicative of imported or domestic birds, depending on the type of band used. 12. Aside from the bands, another way (not so accurate) to tell a baby or younger bird is by looking at its beak and feet. In a young bird, these are soft and smooth. Older birds have scaly feet and beaks that show wear. ==I'VE SELECTED MY BIRD AND I'M BUYING IT. WHAT SHOULD I DO NOW?== 1. You should make sure that if the bird does not pass a vet exam, you have the privilege of returning/exchanging the bird within a certain and reasonable amount of time. Some dealers include a vet check in the purchase price, but ask if you can take the bird to your vet as well. 2. Get a *written* bill of sale, clearly stating the terms of the sale, which really should include: A. The privilege to return the bird if it is not up to par. B. Date of purchase and any other conditions of sale. C. The amount that you paid for the bird, method of payment (cash, etc) D. The bird's band number. E. The hatch date of the bird F. A full description of the bird, scientific name, any unusual marks, and the bird's sex (if known) G. If the bird is imported, get all the proper documentation for it. Such information might prove useful when retrieving a stolen bird, or if you should ever have to prove ownership of your avian amigo. 3. Get written instructions on diet, care, and such. ==GETTING POLLY HOME== Bringing the bird home in a cage would make sense, but it is less stressing for the bird if you bring it home in a secure, darkened carrier. A cardboard box with some airholes in it is ideal for small birds. A plastic carrier the ones for used for cats and dogs, and covered with a towel is excellent for larger birds. Move the birds individually whenever possible. For a journey of an hour or so, no food is needed. For a long haul, sprinkle some seed on the floor of the carrier. Use firm, moist fruits to provide liquids. Never put the birds in the trunk of a car. Try not to stop too often. Try to have the cage already set up at home. You can then put the new arrival into its new cage, and let it rest and get used to the new scenery. It is a good idea to isolate it from the rest of your pet birds. Two weeks is a fair time. If you are buying a bird that will have to be airshipped, you will pay for a carrier and the airfreight. You may also pay what is called a "crate" or "box" fee. You will then pick up the bird at the nearest airport. =============================================================================== B I R D C A G E S A N D P E R C H E S =============================================================================== ==CAGES== Q. What size cage do I need to get for my bird? A. Get the largest you can possibly afford. A good rule of thumb is that the bird should be able to stretch out its wings fully in at least one direction. Q. Is bar spacing important? A. Yes. If it is too large, a smaller bird could hang itself. 1 3/16 is a good space for medium birds and 1 3/8 is good for larger. 3/4 inch spacing is fine for cockatiels, smaller than that for finches. (repectively 3.02, 3.50, and 1.90 cm) Q. What about horizontal vs. vertical bars? A. Horizontal bars are nice for the birds because they're easy to climb. Vertical bars make it hard to climb, but don't fray long tailfeathers. Q. What kind of metal is used for the cages? A. Anodized aluminum, Brass, stainless steel, wrought iron. For some of the smaller cages for less destructive birds, wood and clear acrylic sheeting, like Plexiglas(tm), may be used. Q. I'd like a colored cage...can I get one? A. Some cages are available with a "powder coat finish" so you can get them in different colors, however, birds can eventually gnaw the finish off. There are epoxy painted cages as well. Some cages come in wood cabinets, and you can order custom designs to match your decor. Q. Do I need a wrought iron cage with those fancy curlicues? A. Nope. The fancy stuff can be hard to clean, and the bird can get caught in it. Q. What's a knock down cage? A. It's a cage that comes shipped flat and unassembled. Nut and bolt assemblies hold it together. Be careful if you have a mechanically inclined bird, it might loosen screws. Check the every so often. One piece cages are just that. They're completely assembled and welded together. Q. I've seen great deals on cages, should I get one? A. Sure, as long as it's sturdy and safe. Check for sharp corners, poor latches, shoddy paint. Paint can be toxic and if the bird gnaws on it disaster could ensue. Look at the welds. Are they smooth and virtually invisible? Give the cage a good shake. Does it stand firm, or sway precariously? This is your bird's house we're talking about, here. When in doubt, don't buy it. Q. I don't have the money for a new cage, how about a used one? A. As long as the bird didn't die of some contagious disease, it should be fine. Disinfect the cage thoroughly. One text I came across suggests taking a portable blowtorch and searing the cage. This would definitely kill any yuckies, but would melt anything other than a thick steel or iron cage. Q. Where should the cage be placed? A. Never in direct sunlight! But a bright area close to the hubbub of your household is ideal. There should be no drafts of hot or cold air. The kitchen, due to fumes, flames, and such is a poor idea. Dreary basements are a poor choice too. A finished basement is fine, as long as it's not damp and has good circulation and there's action going on that the bird can be part of. Q. Do I really need to cover the cage? A. Depends on the bird. Birds, like people, need undisturbed sleep. If the bird is in a room you can darken, then no, you don't need a cover. Sometimes, the bird may be scared of the covered cage. Other times, birds may refuse to go to sleep if the cage isn't covered, and will holler for it. If you turn down the heat in your house at night, covering the cage is really a good idea. You can get custom covers made to fit any size or shape or use a sheet or a blanket. Covering a cage can help reduce screaming at the break of day. Q. How do I clean the bird's cage? A. Warm, soapy water and a sponge work well. You may want to use some sort of disinfectant. Rinse well no matter what, and make sure that everything is dry before putting the bird back in. Q. What should I use for as a tray liner? A. There are several options, and much debate over what is best. You could use: no liner, gravel paper, plain newsprint paper, shavings, processed cobs, newspaper. Birds should not ingest any of the above, although plain paper isn't harmful, it will get soiled. A grid above the tray will prevent ingestion of liner material and any dropped and soiled food. Newspaper itself is not toxic, but some inks are. You can call your local paper to find out what type of ink they use. Soy-based inks are non-toxic. No liner means you've got to scrub out the pan, to which the poop has cemented itself. Processed cobs can actually be used with or without a grid, but make sure your bird doesn't eat them. There is commercially prepared gravel paper, but it's hard to find in the larger sizes and the gravel usually doesn't stick to it very well, and ends up all over. **HELP! My bird is an escape artist!*** Sammy, the green-cheeked conure (Pyrrhura molinae) kept escaping from his cage via the sliding door, and the food accesses. I "wired" them shut with Quick Links(tm)--c-type links. They were easier than messing with those plastic "pine tree" type garbage bag ties. You may have to use padlocks with larger birds. However some of them are *very* mechanically inclined (especially Cockatoos) and may very well pick the lock. For the die hard cases, use combination locks. SOURCES FOR CAGES: *Note: I went shopping for cages. These I wrote to. Animal Environments Inglebrook Forges 2270 Camino Vida Roble, Ste. 1 151 N. San Dimas Canyon Rd. Carlsbad, CA, 92009 San Dimas, CA, 91773 King's Aviary Quisenberry Enterprises 256-8 Craft Ave. 915 Glen Arrow Hwy. Rosedale, NY 11422 Glendora, CA, 91740 ==PERCHES== Q. What kinds of perch(es) does my bird need? A. Your bird needs an assortment of perches of varying diameter, to provide exercise, to prevent foot injuries and such ailments as sores and arthritis. Q. Where should the perches go? A. Your bird should be able to climb all over his cage, so place the perches accordingly. Stagger them, and make sure there's enough clearance for the bird to sit up comfortably. Nobody likes to bonk their head! Q. What can the perch be made of? A. Wood--the plain round ones are everywhere. There's manzanita and madrone, maple, and apple wood. They can be made from PVC and from acrylic, like Plexiglas(tm) but these should be sanded slightly to roughen up the otherwise slick surface. There are rope perches, there are even concrete perches, like Polly Perfect(tm) which help to keep beak and nails in trim. Q. What shape should the perch be? A. They range from round to flat to elliptical. Provide at least two different shapes. Q. What about those sandpaper perches? A. Okay, but make absolutely certain the bird has another perch to sit on. Or only cover half the perch with the sandpaper cover. Q. Rope perches in the pet store are expensive! Can I get them elsewhere? A. Sure. It was posted to the net that they can be purchased at boating suppliers. Make sure you get all cotton-rope that hasn't been treated with chemicals. Ropes are great for feather-pickers, but watch out for fraying, and replace the rope when it gets too frizzy. Booda Bones(tm) makes Byrdy Cable(R) rope bird perches if you'd rather buy them from a pet store. Q. Can I make my own perches? A. Definitely. Use wood that you know is untreated, and cure it. Make sure there's no bugs or anything nasty like that in or on the wood. Cure it until it's thoroughly dried out. Leave the bark on, birds love to peel it off. T-stand type perches are useful aides in the training of your birds. We use one for the conure's "potty." SOURCES FOR PERCHES Manufacturers of cages will often offer perches. Manufacturers of toys will sometimes offer perches. Aries Manufacturing (Manzanita perches) Avian Adventures (acrylic) 4480 Treat Blvd. Ste. 201 P.O. Box 92136 Concord, CA, 9421 Warren, MI, 48902-0136 $2.00 for brochure, refunded with order. =============================================================================== B I R D I E T O Y S =============================================================================== As has already been mentioned, birds are playful and intelligent. A bored bird is a dead bird, basically. So it stands to reason that birds like-- and need playthings. Q. What size toy do I need for my bird? A. Well, a big bird needs a big toy, and a small bird, a small toy. If you give the bird the wrong-sized toy, injury is possible. Most toys are labelled for small, medium, large, and extra-large birds. Q. What kind of toy should I buy? A. Depends on the bird. Some love bells, some like twirly, spinning toys, some like rawhide leather to chew on. Some prefer "hand-held" toys over those that hang from the cage. Wood is a good choice for any bird, it exercises the beak. Fabric is excellent for feather-pluckers. It all depends on your bird, and sometimes, finding the right kind of toy can be a hit-or-miss endeavor. Q. How many toys should the bird have? A. The bird should have a variety of toys, but only two or so in the cage at a time. Rotate the toys about every two to three weeks so the bird doesn't get bored. Q. My bird seems terrified of the new toy, what do I do? A. Some birds can be suspicious of any new thing, including toys. It seems that a lot of African Greys are like this. The best thing to do is to put the toy on the floor of the cage or playpen. When the bird starts poking at it and taking and interest, then try hanging it up. ***HELP! My bird HATES the twenty dollar toy I bought for it!*** Try putting it on the floor of the cage (see previous question) If this doesn't work, then you're pretty much out twenty dollars. Taste is a personal thing, and birds definitely do have preferences. Don't be upset or mad at the bird if it didn't like what you picked out. Q. One bird chews, one bird plucks. Are there any special toys for them? A. For chewers, try wood toys, if they destroy that, try an acrylic, which will last longer. Manzanita wood is really hard, too. Try toys by Manzanita Munchies and Naughty Acrylics(tm). For pluckers, try rope toys, like Byrdy Cable(r) by Booda Bone(tm) or the Polly Dolly(tm) by Lucia. The Polly Dolly(tm) has lots of different colors and cloth to pick at. Q. How do I clean the toys? A. A mild soap and warm water will usually do the trick. Rinse and rinse and rinse, and then dry well. Q. What are some dangers of toys? A. Hanging, either by getting caught in a clip used to attach the toy, (avoid those metal shower curtain hangers) or by getting wrapped up in a leather strip, or a getting hooked in a chain. Fibers from rope and cloth toys can be wrapped around toes, cutting off circulation and resulting in the loss of a toe or even a foot. If the toy is shoddily made from cheap materials, it might break off, and parts could be ingested. Paint might be toxic. Make certain that the clapper in the bell cannot be pulled out and eaten. Be careful how you attach a toy. Some birds can unscrew C-links and might tighten them onto a toe or their tongue. Others seem to always get tangled in hanging ropes or chains. If this is the case, give your bird a "hand-held" toy when you can't be around, and carefully observe playtime with hanging toys. Q. Can I use some household items for toys? A. Sure. Toilet paper *tubes* (not the toilet paper) seem to be resounding favorites, and they're cheap! Ping-pong balls are popular, along with ball-point pen tubes (with the ink cartridge removed) We have a ten-speed set up as an exercise bike in the living room, and our four birds love to "go biking" more than anything. Plastic measuring spoons and cups work well, and Josie the cockatiel loves to play with the plastic caps to soda bottles. But one of the best ideas has to come from brackney@ecn.purdue.edu (Larry J. Brackney) who writes: " My wife and I are firm believers in giving our birds baby toys. They are typically MUCH cheaper than bird toys, and generally hard to destroy. All of our birds love interlocking plastic toys: hearts, fish, etc. And you can buy them at discount and toy stores. We also have good luck getting toys at the local Goodwill. They usually have a bin of $0.25 baby toys (plastic doo-dads, teething rings, etc.) We usually pick through them, and try to pick out toys without small parts that can be broken and swallowed. Once home, we wash and sterilize the toys. " --------- SOURCES FOR TOYS: These are ones I've seen in my local pet shops. B is for Bird Toy Fowl Play 6740 William Ln 545 William Ln Lincoln, CA, 95648 Moline, IL, 61265 Polly Dolly Texture Toy Thee Birdie Bordello P.O. Box 997 P.O. Box 2906 Comfort, TX, 78013 El Segundo, CA, 90245 =============================================================================== E N D O F P A R T O N E ===============================================================================